Besides the calming exercises (Sit on The Dog, Relax for Exam, and Behavioral Downs), completing my sit reps with my dog (or a client's dog) is usually a good warm up to distraction training.   I pick this, because it is usually one of the first things I teach AND hence easiest for the dog to perform in habit and muscle memory.  This gets us in working mode as a team (not a perfect team, but a team in progress).

​The Benefits of Using Verbal Markers or Clicker Training:

• Mental challenge to your dog.   Giving this information to your dog makes them think.  With clicker training, they are thinking about what they might have just done to get them that noise and then reward. 
  
• With Verbal Markers, these are directions that make them think about what they need to do with the feedback they were just given.
  
• When you get going, you can use these to give information from a distance.
  
• Great way to bond and interact with your dog.

 
 
 
Clicker Equipment in Dog Training:

A clicker is a device that makes a sound when you press it.   The video on the left is of a standard clicker.   These can be used to quickly mark what it is that you want your dog to do.

At the very beginning of using a clicker to train your dog, the first step is usually to simply treat your dog with a food reward after every click.   This is transferring the reward of food to the noise of the clicker.  In dog training we call this a bridge.  This can signal that a reward is forth coming, or as you get more advanced that a good job was done (and perhaps you are using variable food or toy rewards at that time).  The bridge, in other words is associated with the reward.

Pros:
·          A unique noise that is different than the many words you are using.   
·          Great timing when used with shaping commands.
·          Great for trick training and capturing moments that you want repeated.

Cons: 
·          Certain disabilities could make this training hard to impossible for some people.
·          This can occasionally be problematic if you happen to have a noise sensitive dog.  
·          It is an additional piece of equipment that you need to carry on you to use.
·          Treats will also be needed to use, though possibly not forever.
·          Sometimes dogs can get a little anxious to get the answer correct and thus get the reward.
·          As you advance, it can get frustrating if you have not figured out your timing and consistency.
VERBAL MARKERS IN DOG TRAINING:​

Verbal markers allow the trainer or dog owner to give more than one type of feedback.  For instance a common string of verbal markers uses three words, and is designed to give the following information:
 
·          No = That is not what I am looking for OR try again.
·          Good = That is what I am looking for, and keep going.
·          Yes = Task complete and release. (also usually the one that indicates an upcoming food reward)
Consistency and timing is what will teach your dog what each of these words mean.  For instance, if I say "good", but my dog instead releases, I am sure to correct that every time by a "no" or a body movement or just placing them back or a collar correction.  If they don't release after good, I may give them physical praise like a pat or a smile or sometimes even a food reward (not as often).  If I say "no" and the dog does not try something else or change direction (for instance), then I would be sure to enforce or encourage what I wanted instead by leash or demonstration.  When I say yes, I try to make it clear the dog is free to do what they want at that point (within reason of course).

I use these verbal markers in all sorts of different combinations for a range of different tasks, tricks, and obedience exercises.  I like that these can be used when the dog is in motion and working on something for or with you.

Pros:​
·          No additional equipment needs to go with you. ​
·          Provides more than one kind of feedback.
·          Gives your dog a mental challenge to know what these verbal directions mean and interpret them
·          Easy to use with both food and toy rewards.
·          Great interactive bonding time with your dog.
Cons:
·          You need to be able to use your voice, which might not be possible for some people.
·          Timing may not be as immediate or exacting as clicker training.
·          Food or toys are additional items that make verbal markers more meaningful in the beginning and also as you advance
Why I Love Giving Feed Back to My Dog:
​
My dog's faces light up at a "Good Boy" or "Good Girl”. They have been conditioned to know this means they have done a good job with timing, consistency, and my attitude.  Seeing joy and accomplishment on my dogs' faces really cheers me up personally and gives me all the good feels.  Also, I love to see my dogs' think something through and then accomplish it.   Remember, we give our dogs the opportunities to amuse themselves and challenge themselves.  They do not have the access to transportation or entertainment that we do.   Keeping your dog thinking and active is beneficial to them both mentally and physically.   Try these out with your dogs and have fun! 
 
​

Dog trainer's dogs (especially if their owner trains out of the home) need their own time and space too.   I make sure LaLa gets that, and is not too overwhelmed during the day.   This allows her to enjoy her experiences more rather than see them as an endless chore to be endured.  So some training is done around other dogs and people, and some training is just alone time for the both of us.  Then there is downtime that we both need during the day, and her exercise and fulfillment needs met during the day.  LaLa is not very demanding, but I know from experience that meeting dog's needs even if they don't insist on it makes for a happier dog.

LaLa did well with the new students, Remi and Knox.   She was a little leary of Remi at first, since she is just a happy enthusiastic puppy.  Some older dogs find that off putting at first.   Once LaLa realized she is just a sweet little thing, kisses were swapped between the two.   LaLa does prefer dog's like Knox.   Just a young goof of a male puppy.  Her best playmate right now is Frankie, a Golden Retriever she has gotten to know over a month know.   They will just wrestle each other all day if you let them.  LaLa's best quiet time friend is our blind senior friend, Bandit.  They like to sniff and nap together.  So LaLa has been making a whole range of canine friends.

With the increased company of both humans and canines in the house this week, calming and obedience exercises were worked on at home.  It is difficult for dogs to happily share their territory sometimes.   Being an only child myself, I get that.   It seems to bother LaLa not too much, but I want to remain respectful of her need for peace, quiet, and alone time at some point during the day, as well as paying attention to the importance of her training around distractions.   LaLa and Robert also need their special time during the day as well.  Robert has been entertaining her with some trick training and giving a lot of love during the day.  Here is our training sheet for the week.  Note;  Saturday is not done yet, and I somehow hurt my knee so I took the day off on Friday.

Here is a little snippet on why Sit on The Dog is important for LaLa.  LaLa in the video is finding it a bit challenging to chill while her friends play close by.  This is a behavioral exercise, which means no commands are involved.   Later on I will be able to show you a similar scenario where she is not reacting to dogs moving.  She reacts like this even when dog's are playing at  a distance on the beach.   It is overarousal, and if a dog does not learn impulse control later on for off leash training, it will limit their ability to enjoy safe off leash freedom within the confines of our domestic life.  Not many people understand or know how calming behavioral exercises can help with their dogs.   LaLa has already come along way with her impulse control in other situations, and this will also be easy peasy for her later on.  I never let my dogs play or greet other dogs when they are in an aroused excited state like this.  It can lead to all sort of misunderstandings between canines and possible physical disagreements.   LaLa is just frustrated here, because for this moment she was not allowed to join in.   Dog's do need an off switch on occasion though and a way to learn how to calm down.   

At Mannerly Mutts Dog Training, we pick our equipment for quality and safety.  Dog equipment does not train the dog, but it can make the training easier for both the human and the dog.   Dog equipment's bigger and more important role is to keep your dog safe.

All you need to do is glance at Lost Dog Recovery of Maine's FB page to see a small representative of the problem.  Just a couple of months ago Sapphire, a Jack Russell Terrier, in York Maine was lost, and has not been found.  A couple of days ago, we saw another two dogs who had slipped their collar and leash on our road and heading through the neighborhood.  We could not catch them, but they did make it home.  Not all of these end in a happy ending however, with all the dangers around us (autos, predators, and just the amount of land to get lost in).  Dogs can move very fast, especially when spooked, and cover long distances.  So what makes the equipment we use safest when bringing dogs outside to train?

​What to look for in a slip leash:

1. Soft Strong Material:  Material should feel strong, safe, and comfortable in your hands.
   
2. Stop Gap:  The leather or plastic above the slip collar (part of a slip leash) is to put a stop  as to how the slack the collar can get, so that your dog does not pull out of it.  Without one, the collar portion of the leash can get loose and your dog will slip out.
   
3. Uses in dog training and safety:  A slip leash is great for puppies and small dogs.  The collar can always be adjusted to fit any size of dog.   It is easy to grab and go or store in your car if you see a loose dog.  You can teach tension and release on the slip collar much like you might on a tight buckle collar, a nylon slip collar, or a metal chain training collar.
   

​What to look for in a transitional leash:

1. Everything on a slip leash plus…
2. Safety backup to collar provides protection in case this comes off when in a nose loop configuration.  It does not happen that it gets loose often, but I have had it happen a couple of times to me.
3. Uses in training:  This is a leash I find usefully with reactive dogs when they are conditioned to it.  This can also help people that have some strength or balance problems make the training less physical on them.  
4. If you train with this equipment (rather than manage with this equipment), then it can be easily converted to a slip leash if you just want to use the collar portion.

​What to look for in a long line:

1. Nylon (in my honest opinion) is better than cotton.  I say this because I have had a cotton long line break on me, but never a nylon one.
   
2. No fraying or breaks if you are using it outdoors.  Untangling this leash and rolling it up nicely at the end of each training session will prolong the leash’s life.  
   
3. Right width, length, and hardware size for your dog and training  There are lengths that are too long or too short for different training goals and exercises.  Smaller dogs are going to need less width and smaller hardware (like clips) to be comfortable.
   
4. Brass hardware is usually safer.  I can’t always find brass hardware, but I feel a lot safer when I have equipment with brass hardware on it.
   
5. Uses in training and safety:  If your dog is not off leash trained, this allows you to get them some freedom when you are not in an otherwise fenced in area.  In training, these are what I call the “training wheels” towards off leash training to a reliable standard.
   

​What to look for in a collar:

1. Why do I recommend metal training collars (or slip leads for outdoor walking)?  So many dogs get out of harnesses, cheap flat plastic collar clips break, and the best flat collar is one with a metal buckle that can be made snug and also has the holding clips to hold it in place, otherwise these too can fail.  Martingales that are all cloth or nylon often are able to slip off a panicky dog’s neck. All you have to do is look at your local found or lost dog FB pages in your area to see the problem.
   
2. Stainless steel is the best material for this  although I can’t always find this.  I don’t like nylon slip collars, because (unlike slip leads with quality material) they tend to rub off the fur on the dog’s neck.  Also nylon or cotton slip collars tend to wear out and stretch out faster.  Fit is important in all of these collars.
   
3. Herm Sprenger brand has been known to have the best quality and engineering (as far as dog training goes).  These collars are meant to have a loose/tight loose action when put on correctly for training.  Brands that your typical pet store carries (because they are cheap) do not have that engineering.
   
4. If you condition or work your dog on any collar they will not “choke” your dog, as these collars are commonly called “choke collars”, and that is not an acceptable use in these collars.
   
5. Uses in training and safety:  Unless you have a ridiculously large collar, it would be incredibly rare that your dog could slip out of this.   In training, the collar is not used as a correctional device until the dog is trained to a standard and understands what they are doing.  Then the loose tight loose correction can be used as a cue, so that you can stand upright and comfortable when you and your dog are in training.
   

On the training log below, the gray areas have already been done.  The yellow areas are potentially "to do"  Yesterday was an amazing pool day, and so I took advantage of that and did less training than I planned to with LaLa.​  With our guests here this week, we did more calming exercises than usual, and we made progress regarding Lala getting overly excited when other dogs play and she is left out doing something else.   They are leaving tonight, so I hope to get a well deserved (for LaLa) walk about to the beach.

​Tops and Bottoms:

• During the summer season, cotton or wicking t shirts and durable shorts (or in my case bike shorts) are comfortable to wear.   I like shorts with plenty of pockets, especially if I am not bringing my training bag with me.  However, long pants (ideally denim) are much better if your dog has taken to redirecting (this is when a frustrated dog bites you instead of the trigger) or scratching you with their nails when triggers are around.  Muzzles will also spare your skin in the former scenario.
• Puppy nails and mouthing puppy teeth tend to pull at certain fabrics (no light delicate fabrics or fabrics that may pull). This is why my main top choices for training dogs are made out of denim, good quality spandex for bike shorts, good quality cotton shirts, or sturdy short fabric. Choices on my bottom half tend toward dark wash jeans, which are virtually impossible to stain with muddy feet or rip (that is real jeans not summer jeans). Don't forget how sharp puppy teeth are, even if they aren't trying, a very lightweight fabric on your bottom or top half is not to hard to tear.
• Light colors always seem to stain, even if it seems that they won't. Avoid these in dog training, because muddy paws always seem to find a way to imprint on the fabric. Don't wear them on your bottom or top.

​Shoe Choices:

• Unless you are trying to hurt yourself, flip-flops are NEVER EVER appropriate. If you are moving, these can slip off easily or break when you are moving.  For the safety issues, nothing with any kind of a heel or with slippery bottoms is appropriate.
• Poop is something we all strive to pick up, but can be hiding out in some tall grass. Shoes with flat yet tractable bottoms are the easiest to clean. Very intricate waffle bottoms, for instance on running shows, are not so easy to clean.
• You may want a few high quality shoes just for dog training. I NEVER skimp on my shoes that I use for dog training. I also realize these shoes may go through dirt, sand, mud, muck, poop, water puddles, and snow. So my shoes that I go out in public (not to train dogs) are a totally separate category.
• My preference is NO LACES. Well fitting slip-ons with great traction is what I prefer to train dogs in.

Winter Accessory Clothing Tips:

• Winter head apparel should not block your vision. So much of dog training depends on being observant of your dog and your environment for timing and proper training.
• Thick gloves in the winter will cause you to loose a lot of the feel and the dog that you are working with. Find warm gloves that are as thin as possible when you need them. Mittens are not advised, as they impede your hand movement and dexterity even more.
• Loose scarves (and anything tempting like a pony tail) can look like a fun thing to grab and pull on for a puppy, especially.
• Boots should be warm and easy to walk in.  Winter slip on boots (or zip up boots) should fit closely and be hard to get on.

Clothing Tips if You are Working an Aggressive Dog:

• I will always tell my clients that it is unacceptable to wear sandals, even sports sandals when training a dog. However, I do it sometimes with a non-behaviorally challenged dog.  If a dog is willing to bite me, I do not do that. Although, I have never been bitten on my foot, I always wear thick leather shoes WITH socks to protect me if they go for my ankles.
• Jeans, real heavy duty jeans, are a must. This way you are more likely to get a bruise if a redirection comes your way, rather than a flesh wound.
• Baggy sweatshirts and layers underneath. This gives you a little bubble around you to react if they go for your arms or torso.
• I have never yet felt the need to wear gloves to protect my hands from a bite. Mostly, I don't want the dogs that I work with to bite down harder as a result. However, I am sure there are some dogs out there that would inspire me to have a change of mind. So far, I would rather a basket muzzle at first, if I feel the dog is too quick for me

 

Week 7 going forward, I am going to be working on our walk much more, especially off property.  She is fairly good walking on a loose leash on property even with the chipmunks around (although I won't say there is perfection every time).   Also I am going to bring her training more and more outside.   On her inside training, some will be off leash, and I am going to be concentrating on our form.  It is possible that LaLa may be doing some obedience competition with me, so I want to concentrate on some of those skills now, and not try to clean up later.   Some rules have changed since last time I titled my and my clients dogs.   So I need to try to work for those differences too.   I don't see any reason with LaLa's temperament  that we could not achieve this, if I (especially me) worked on it.

Video of Lucy Doing  Circle Sit Stays:

Of course, we also go through all the steps of the "Come" command.  Many people use "Off" for getting off them or the furniture when they jump off.   You could also use "Leave It" to be more proactive (if you have taught that around a multitude of things including people and dogs).  I prefer sit, and I make it a habit if that is what and why I am working on something like reducing or getting rid of jumping on things or beings.  

Over the years, I have found having a more complete communication system with my dogs (and my client's dogs) provides more opportunities to practice and use our communication system in different scenarios.  Also a dog really does not enjoy just doing one or two things with you.  As a dog owner, you have to keep the training (in my opinion) a little interesting and challenging to prevent boredom.  

​Please let us know if this helped you in the comments on this blog or our Facebook and Instagram pages.

In the above video, a couple of ways of increasing reliability for later on have been started.   The first is that we are outside on the porch (an easy way to start outside distractions or introduce a new skill to outside distractions).  The second thing is that I am not holding LaLa's leash, but she is dragging her leash for this exercise.   So I have her leash on but not held for Circle Stays and Long Place (inside or on the porch outside) but if I increase the distraction even more later, it is entirely probably that I will need to take a step back and hold the leash again until we build her impulse control up wherever or whatever that dog training environment or distraction ends up being.

For some food reward luring exercises, I can work her off leash (only because she is into it with food) INSIDE.  Again this builds her confidence and ability to some day do these things off leash in different environments (however, almost any way you do it takes a long time to work and proof).  If at some point she was not listening, she would go back on leash.   That phase may happen when I start staggering the treats later on.   When I do that ends up being a judgement call with my own dog, since our timeline is not guided by anything immediate right now.  With a client's dog and less time, often I need to prioritize the goals of the client and try and match the pace of that dog's owner and the owner's learning curve as well.  The tricks and/or commands that she can work (lured with food) off leash and inside are send to place, spin or follow the hand, pretty (new trick), look or attention to name, heeling, let's go, come or recall, and take it and out (dumbell exercise). 

The below fetch exercise can be a gateway to a lot of different activities for a dog (including the advanced portion of competition obedience).  I happened to start this because there was the slightest suspicion of us around her toys at the beginning.   So teaching her that most times she is going to get the item back begins the trust process.  That is, LaLa trusting that we aren't just arbitrarily taking things from her all the time.  In fact, these things can be worked into games and more fun for your dog.  I started this with food trades for an out.   Then she got good at the opening her mouth portion to get it.  So basically get in and out reps were rewarded on the out.  Of course in order to get the reward, LaLa has to take it and hold it briefly.  In this video, I am doing it without treats.  Depending on if she keeps working well or not with this, I may introduce food rewards again.  This session she did very well.  A couple of times she wanted to bite the ends instead of the middle, and a couple of times she tried to avoid the dumbell.  I just look for improvement in our performance and activities, and this was successful improvement at the end of week 5.

Play training is becoming easier to start with LaLa.  I even got her to play with me standing (her on the floor) today, which I think has been a little intimidating for her.   I don't ever know if we are going to be able to do really good play training, but the process is worth it either way.   It only takes me  3-4 minutes every other day.  The trick right now is to pretty much let her "win" (run off with her toy).  So in other words, when I am playing with her, I am not practicing "out" or "leave it" with the toy.   I put her toys that she likes to play with, back up for a couple days after the session.   Those toys are fluffless lamby and a ropey toy.  Occasionally, a chuck it ball will do the trick too (just not thrown at her or the wall, just tossed up and let it drop on the bed).  She does not like things flopping near her head, so I avoid that.  Also, I try to be silly with her in some portions of the day by stalking and chasing her or by playing hide and seek.   This way she may get the idea that I like to play too (with her).   The improvement is that I can now initiate a short play session (as well as I select the time and toy well and follow those rules).    It would be fun if we could more actively use play training in the future, but it is not a requirement.    Just getting LaLa to enjoy playing with me for short periods of time would be enough. 

Observations at the end of the week:  LaLa is a fast learner.  She generally does like to do training and activities with her people.  Interactive play has been more of a challenge than her obedience exercises.  She can occasionally be stubborn (like if she wants to keep track of Robert or watch the critters instead of working), but overall she is cooperative with the lessons.   Compared to my previous working dog Shana, she is very chill.  She likes (and we provide) activity and adventures, but she can also relax with you during the day.  We will see if that continues, as I sometimes suspect there is a wild woman in there.