There is something so basic in dog training that I often forget to communicate to my human clients. It ends up being important what you wear to train your dog or puppy. I typically have a basic dress code everyday even with seasoned and trained dogs. A lot of my work requires me being able to get dirty and play with the dogs in different environments as the training progresses. This could be in the woods around wetlands or on a mountain trail. I have separate clothes for dog training, so I don’t ruin my non-dog training clothes. Do not wear your favorite (dry clean only or hand wash only) clothes while training dogs. Some of this advice may be over the top for just a dog owner trainer, nevertheless, I think they are great tips to keep in mind for either the professional trainer or dog owner: |
- During the summer season, cotton or wicking t shirts and durable shorts (or in my case bike shorts) are comfortable to wear. I like shorts with plenty of pockets, especially if I am not bringing my training bag with me. However, long pants (ideally denim) are much better if your dog has taken to redirecting (this is when a frustrated dog bites you instead of the trigger) or scratching you with their nails when triggers are around. Muzzles will also spare your skin in the former scenario.
- Puppy nails and mouthing puppy teeth tend to pull at certain fabrics (no light delicate fabrics or fabrics that may pull). This is why my main top choices for training dogs are made out of denim, good quality spandex for bike shorts, good quality cotton shirts, or sturdy short fabric. Choices on my bottom half tend toward dark wash jeans, which are virtually impossible to stain with muddy feet or rip (that is real jeans not summer jeans). Don't forget how sharp puppy teeth are, even if they aren't trying, a very lightweight fabric on your bottom or top half is not to hard to tear.
- Light colors always seem to stain, even if it seems that they won't. Avoid these in dog training, because muddy paws always seem to find a way to imprint on the fabric. Don't wear them on your bottom or top.
- Unless you are trying to hurt yourself, flip-flops are NEVER EVER appropriate. If you are moving, these can slip off easily or break when you are moving. For the safety issues, nothing with any kind of a heel or with slippery bottoms is appropriate.
- Poop is something we all strive to pick up, but can be hiding out in some tall grass. Shoes with flat yet tractable bottoms are the easiest to clean. Very intricate waffle bottoms, for instance on running shows, are not so easy to clean.
- You may want a few high quality shoes just for dog training. I NEVER skimp on my shoes that I use for dog training. I also realize these shoes may go through dirt, sand, mud, muck, poop, water puddles, and snow. So my shoes that I go out in public (not to train dogs) are a totally separate category.
- My preference is NO LACES. Well fitting slip-ons with great traction is what I prefer to train dogs in.
- Winter head apparel should not block your vision. So much of dog training depends on being observant of your dog and your environment for timing and proper training.
- Thick gloves in the winter will cause you to loose a lot of the feel and the dog that you are working with. Find warm gloves that are as thin as possible when you need them. Mittens are not advised, as they impede your hand movement and dexterity even more.
- Loose scarves (and anything tempting like a pony tail) can look like a fun thing to grab and pull on for a puppy, especially.
- Boots should be warm and easy to walk in. Winter slip on boots (or zip up boots) should fit closely and be hard to get on.
- I will always tell my clients that it is unacceptable to wear sandals, even sports sandals when training a dog. However, I do it sometimes with a non-behaviorally challenged dog. If a dog is willing to bite me, I do not do that. Although, I have never been bitten on my foot, I always wear thick leather shoes WITH socks to protect me if they go for my ankles.
- Jeans, real heavy duty jeans, are a must. This way you are more likely to get a bruise if a redirection comes your way, rather than a flesh wound.
- Baggy sweatshirts and layers underneath. This gives you a little bubble around you to react if they go for your arms or torso.
- I have never yet felt the need to wear gloves to protect my hands from a bite. Mostly, I don't want the dogs that I work with to bite down harder as a result. However, I am sure there are some dogs out there that would inspire me to have a change of mind. So far, I would rather a basket muzzle at first, if I feel the dog is too quick for me