Mannerly Mutts Making Dog and Owner Dreams Come True in York Maine
(207) 361-4395 Robin Rubin, Head Trainer Cell Phone
(508) 735-8630 Robert Rubin, Sales and Daycare Cell Phone
37 Paul Street York Beach, Maine 03910
mannerlymutts.rubin@gmail.com
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Would you really do anything for your dog to have a good life?   Would you?

5/31/2017

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​"I will do anything to stop this [barking, housebreaking, destructive behavior, aggression, fear, pulling, stealing, not coming,]." I hear it all the time on the other end of my phone, through e-mails and posted on boards. What is this anything they are talking about?


Well most of the time the owners think they are going onto the dark side, which includes the methods of flooding, kicking, hanging, yelling at, or hitting your dogs. However, I have personally never met a dog trainer or dog training school that uses these "methods" of dog training. I hear it in the trembling voice on the other end of the phone. Imagine their surprise when they hear or see my methods. That is, if they get that far in the first place.




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Why do professional dog trainers cost so much?

5/31/2017

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Sometimes luck comes into your life, and you get something for free. There are many good reasons why a dog may be free, but a human shouldn't NEED for the dog to be free for financial reasons. There are many reasons to pay for the dog you need. These reasons include needing a specific dog due to allergies, temperament requirements, lifestyle, shedding, frail owner, active owner, specific job, stable physical construction, and so on.

​In any case, the least of your expenses is going to be the adoption fee, even if the dog comes from a breeder.   Proper care of a dog includes feeding, grooming, exercising, veterinary care, your time and patience, and (in a perfect world) training.  Training will actually help reduce your veterinary care by allowing your dog to respond to commands, thus avoiding hazards.


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Pack dynamics-a personal example

5/30/2017

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(Republished from years ago.   Leon, Jackie,and Jazz have since passed away.  These are my dogs used as examples below of how individual pack members drive pack dynamics)


While science may try to dispute pack theory, there is no question that group dynamics are relevant and exist when dogs and/or humans hang out together. I first became aware of how a group of dogs could change with the introduction of just one new member when I used to volunteer to train Dobermans at Doberman Rescue Unlimited. In fact, the dynamic impressed me so much, that in the future I would like to offer rotating group classes where the individuals switch up constantly in order to improve obedience with a VERY powerful distraction.

There are many reasons why this new member may be fascinating to others, may be intimidated by others, may be bossy towards others, or may cause others in the group to be very concerned. Dogs are expressing themselves in a foreign language (to us humans) to each other that include body language, eye contact, mouth position, tail movement, and other various methods to which we are largely unaware, unless humans happen to be to dealing with groups of dogs on a regular basis.

A fair amount of my dog training business deals with multi dog issues. This relationship is more complex than a one dog to human family relationship. So many things may be affecting the dogs from unrealistic expectations of what the relationship should be, resource guarding, power struggle, geriatric issues, health issues, lack of training overall, nor rules or boundaries or allowing another dog to abuse another (just to name a few).

In my pack, some changes have started to launch the pack dynamics around here. First my grand dame, Jazz, has died. She has been the undisputed boss of the canines (besides myself of course) for 13 years with me. She was fair, just, tough, and fun all at the same time. Every time a new boarder came, the very first thing she did was lie on their bed with or without them. The message I believe was "you are welcome here, but understand this is my domain." Instead of upsetting the dogs with this, I noticed that all dogs respected and looked up to her. We have had many pass through here that sought to learn from her and definitely play with her. A very special presence has left me, my dogs, and my client's dogs lives.

Another element which has started to mix things up is when Jackie had an unfortunate altercation with a daycare client who collided with him during a dash through the woods a few months ago. That seemed to change every one's demeanor for a bit, and start Jack off with bullying Leon (our other Doberman). At this same time, I have been getting Jack ready for open, which has launched his hardwired resource guarding issues. I readily admit that due to the amount of work to get him to where this is, I had put working him around key items on hold. Now that work is being done, which also means things that were simply managed before have made it to the training threshold point. This is not a short process that is solved in hours, days, or weeks. We are talking about months for improvement to take hold in a consistent and reliable fashion. Again, his brother, Leon, remained the favorite punching bag.

Therefore it's important to consider every one's needs or the Pack's needs if you will. Leon needs to feel safe and free in his own house. My husband and I need to feel that Leon's safety and the safety of our client's dogs are not in jeopardy. At the same time, even though it's concentrated training time for Jackie, his needs are also important in respect to exercise, attention, stimulation, and having fun. Training also remains an activity that can supply this, but it's important to know that your dog can not be in working mode 24/7. Service dogs, police dogs, and all sorts of dogs need a breaks even when they totally love their work.

A leader's most important tools in working with a project like this are knowledge of their dog's personality and triggers, rules and boundaries, consistency and a well thought out training plan. Mine has relied on the additional skills that my dogs know such as "place", "go", "fetch", "give", "out", "leave it" and "over". These are in addition to basic obedience skills of heel, recall, stand, sit stay, and down stay. A pack problem is truly difficult if you have done no reliable training work with your dog. Leon's fetch, for instance, has helped Jack understand that I approve of Leon "getting" items for me, and this is not to be interfered with.

It's not about dominance or dominating Jack. My only goals are to 1) make it clear that Leon is not his to abuse, 2) make it clear that performing the commands has huge rewards, 3) remind Jack the benefits and joys of having Leon as his friend, and 4) teach Jack alternate ways to deal with his resource guarding. I did something like this with my dog, Neptune, and dog aggression many years back. It worked so very well, and I am beginning to see Jack pick up some understanding of this. Retreating, looking to me for direction, giving a look instead of attack, bringing his toy into his crate (by the way he is never unsupervised around toys) ET are all appropriate ways to get his point across. 

Management had worked up until this point. I may not have even picked this battle up right now, except that Jack did two very inappropriate things that were inappropriate in two situations with Leon. Had these remained at a "let them work it out themselves level"; I may have chosen to regard this as an internal household mild issue that came up now and again. It became clear though that Jack was trying to gain inappropriate and damaging control of Leon, which was affecting Leon's quality of life. There is always the option of keeping the two dogs separate or always under strict supervision when together. In analyzing the situation though, I could see the additional work that could be done with Jack. Had I already met that threshold and no improvement had been made, this most likely would have been my solution to the problem. Jack always seems to improve even through my doubts on some things. For instance, the obsession he had with seaweed when we first got him. I didn't think he would EVER be able to just walk on the beach.

Be aware, relationships can change with your dogs, and it doesn't mean you need to throw in the towel. It may mean you need some help to evaluate exactly what is going on. Some are easy to solve, and some are more challenging. I have yet to see a multi dog situation that was not able to be resolved with a bit of elbow grease and maintaining some rules, boundaries, and consistency. That is not to say that there are not sometimes really wrong matches in dog relationships. Most of my cases to date have been dogs that have lived together for a long time, but "something" has changed the chemistry of the relationship.

Having problems in your pack?  Call, e-mail, or fill out our client interview form.   We can help you, your pack, and your dog.

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The resource guarder

5/28/2017

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First, let me define what a resource guarder is in my opinion. A resource guarder is a canine, who has an overdeveloped concern that something they want is either going to be taken away OR they will not have access to it. This concern is usually expressed at first through growls, putting their paw over the object, lining objects up around them, or eyeing down an on comer. If this problem is ignored and not dealt with immediately, teeth will most likely be involved soon after. It does not take a canine who has this fear or concern long to realize an argument can be ended quickly with teeth. After the teeth are involved, bite inhibition decreases exponentially if the problem is ignored.

NOTE:   Often puppies will try to intimidate you, but just need a firm no and discipline.   An adult rescue may try and challenge you as well, but again a no or firm reprimand may easily sway them.
   Not all dogs that try this once or twice are actually resource guarders, but may become them if an owner is unusually reluctant to stop the behavior or has a visible fear of dogs.   However, the type of dogs that I am talking about in this article are usually having a larger problem than the before mentioned.  Also it is the actions the dog shows when the item is attempted to be retrieved rather than the actions alone (gathering up toys, some dogs just enjoy placing them) that indicate whether you have a problem or not.

This concern for the canine exhibiting these behaviors may be very real (actually not receiving proper care or nutrition) or WAS very real at one time (stray and starving for a period of time and needing to fight to be fed). More often, the concern isn't the reality of the situation (in other words nutrition and care is more than adequate). Sometimes, there are times where we must restrict our canine companions access to things, or need to take something away from them. For instance, the need to remove garbage that is dangerous from a canine's mouth.

What are some things that dogs might consider resources?
  • The owner, themselves. A dog might guard that owner from their own spouse or children. Sounds funny, but if you are dealing with this problem...it's really not.
  • Strange people they like in general. Actually, my dog, Jack, is the only dog I know to have done this. If he decides he likes another dog's owner, then he used to attempt to guard that owner from their own dog.
  • Something (anything like a piece of paper) that another dog or human has OR is about to bend down to get. The dog in question does not need to have the item themselves, they may just be guarding it from you or another canine.
  • Food
  • Toys
  • Rocks
  • Dead Things
  • Favorite animal friend
  • Things like seaweed that are not really food, but dogs know they can ingest.
  • Laundry
  • Rooms
  • Crate
  • Vehicle Interior
  • Doors
  • Tissues (what is it with Springers and tissues?) or paper products like towels in general
  • Dog beds or mats
  • And everything else that I have forgotten
This condition can come about due to many variables in a dog's life. They are not only the sole property of adult rescue dogs whose history may be unknown, believe it or not. Unfortunately, this can happen when responsible owners adopt a puppy. Here are some things that I have found make up the perfect storm for a resource guarder:
  • Serious medical issues early on that make certain resources far to important to a young puppy. One of my client's dogs, Cerber a handsome GSD, had elbow problems and surgery starting before he was six months old. He was regulated to a pen area, and had just a few 15 minute potty breaks a day due to the healing process. He had both his elbows done, so it was closer to a year before he was able to do anything resembling what other dogs can do. He seriously did not want people taking either his food or peanut butter kong. You know this sort of thing is a judgement call. I believe the right judgement is for the sanity of your young puppy that he has something to do if he has this issue. However, be aware of the behavioral problems that may develop so that you are prepared.
  • A first time owners' attempts to be sure their dog is not a resource guarder, but are done a bit too vigorously!!! Then what happens, is the dog gets a very real concern that things are going to be taken away willy nilly. Dogs need relaxation and breaks, and overdoing something can be a serious mistake that may in fact bring on the behavior that you didn't want in the first place.
  • If a dog has a "ingesting" problem, and certain things needed to be kept from him/her; this can later manifest itself into resource guarding. My dog, Jack CD, had this very problem. Some dogs just get fixated on eating things they shouldn't.
  • Prior abuse or neglect can cause this problem. If the dog ever had to fight for their food or could not count on food being given at all. In some dogs, this can cause a problem later on, if the dog gets out of this unfortunate place and into a good home. Of course in the original home, it will most likely be a problem, but neglectful and irresponsible owners won't notice or care!!
  • A puppy that was separated from their litter a bit too early OR the mother did not nurse them, could have quite a few issues including resource guarding. So just be aware, if you decide to take a dog from a breeder and this has been disclosed, that you are going to need to be prepared and start a plan quite early to combat issues like this. Likewise a puppy from a shelter that has the same issues. It's great to rescue these puppies, just be aware that they often have special needs.
  • I will commit the wost blasphemy here, and say it might just be part of their personal makeup. Humans all have unique personalities. There are some things that annoy us individually that do not annoy others (the sound of scratching annoys the heck out of me). Dogs are just as individual as we are:) I am not convinced that my dog's, Jack's, low tolerance for dogs being around "his" stuff isn't just what makes Jack, well Jack. Even in Jack's case, he is much more tolerant now, but we keep an eye out for the patience level waning. He's not thrilled about humans necessarily taking his stuff either, but he has a more infinite patience level for that.
  • Insert here the infinite number of other things that I have not thought of yet.
A training and behavior modification plan is, of course, the best action in these cases. Some cases will be much simpler than others. It really seems to depend on how long the initial behavior was either allowed to continue OR the correct solutions were not found right away. Sometimes an owner is working diligently on a problem, even with the help of professionals, but the wrong answers and direction were given. This is not to say that every dog can be saved, and there is always the perfect answer. However, the vast majority of dogs that have ended up in the general dog owning public are able to be greatly improved upon in their ability to adapt to living with the human population as a pet. Children can be the great variable in this situation, in that you would hope a parent would never endanger their children no matter how much they may love the dog. If I don't take on a resource guarding case, it is normally because I don't think the children in the family should be exposed to the dog. Again, some problems are bigger than others, and some resource guarding dogs have a fairly simple issue that does not cause immediate endangerment.

So what sort of things would I expect to hear as options in a training and behavior modification plan for a dog whose primary problem is resource guarding:
  1. The trainer should be interested in a detailed history of the dog with a strong emphasis on any medical history.
  2. An obedience training plan is a must. The dog must be able to be communicated with. Yes, additional things that do not need to be done for just obedience training will need to be implemented, but it will be all for nothing without a strong partnership and communication developed to support the progress. (Can't emphasize enough the importance of a really, really well trained place, stay, and come command. These are stationary and movement commands that really really help with a dog that has aggressive responses to situations, and helps them learn the alternate things that can be done.)
  3. The balance of discipline, trust, and respect should be talked about. With a dog like this, you need to have trust for the dog to relax around you should they have a treasured thing, which they have been allowed to have. Discipline is the form of communication that says there are some behaviors that absolutely will not be tolerated. Respect comes from the understanding of the working relationship between you and your dog. I didn't mention love. Why? Because I have yet to meet the dog that did not love and adore their owner no matter what. The actions of resource guarding have nothing to do with a dog not loving you.
  4. Options options options. How will the trainer make this work? How will they measure their progress? What will tip them off to the fact that it's time to try something new or change up something? The number of tools, methods, experience, and knowledge of very many different things stacked the odds in favor of your individual dog finding the right mix.
  5. So many new trainers or trainers that do not work with resource guarding or aggressive dogs THINK they have seen every personality in dog training. You are going to want to know that your trainer has seen a wide variety of personalities, and that they are continually surprised and awed by what they can see. I have had my easiest and hardest dogs this year alone. This isn't to say I haven't had many a hard dog in the past, because I most definitely have. In twelve short years, I have lost track of the hundreds of dogs that I have seen. I know that owners are sometimes not exaggerating in any form or fashion what they are actually seeing. Experience will give you a trainer that knows the behavioral bends that a dog can take, and will let them know that they are not going to know that dog (necessarily) in the first few weeks.
  6. Management vs training. What do I mean by that? Well first of all, I firmly believe that any good training is bound to involve behavior modification on some level. Training is a method to communicate and set up a partnership with your dog. Behavior modification is the change in a behavior that is not wanted in the human household (and is a reasonable expectation) to one that is more acceptable. Management is the means by which to keep people and other living beings safe. Crates, muzzles, when to allow the dog near people, and managing the environment are all ways to manage or stack the odds for safety. Management normally includes things that you eventually do not want to need to count on OR you want to eliminate them all together OR you want to have to use them in very limited and short term ways. In any aggression or such case that I can think of, there is going to be a degree of management discussed.
  7. And everything else that I have forgotten to mention.
So know that this is a serious problem. Every dog does not have to love to share, BUT do not let serious behavioral issues manifest and fester. You may be faced with a much larger problem down the road if you do not find the appropriate and working answers quickly.

Do you have a brewing or full blown behavioral problem?  We can point you down the path, and your life will get much less stressful as your dog improves.   Please call us, e-mail us, or fill out our client interview form.


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Turned away from daycare?  Don't take it personally.

5/28/2017

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I have a number of rules that I put in place for the taking on of new clients.   I have to admit that every now and again, I wonder if I am being silly.   Maybe I should just bend the rules, ignore the fact that a dog is not fully trained, and perhaps that slightly pink flag is nothing to worry about.  So what if they refer to their dog(s) as "furry children", and are not concerned that their dog can't go into a sit on the first command in the least distracting of settings.


Should I give in to this, it is a mistake on my part.   In fact, I can name a few times I did ignore my rules, and lived to regret that decision.   There are very nice people and dogs out there.   Some of them can not conform to the things that I need in order for them to be clients of a certain type.  


This does not make them bad humans or dogs, but bad for certain situations in my business model.  Many times, I will read negative reviews about another dog facility that turned away business.   The dog's owner is usually quite offended, but often times I see this from the facility's standpoint.   I also understand that the client can not see the real issue at hand, not having worked with so many dogs in one small area.  They think their dog has been seen as a "bad" dog or a "problem" dog.   This may not at all be the case, this dog just might not fit into either the pack or business model that this facility caters to.


The pack can be a tricky situation.   Packs that work here are expected to have a certain level of basic obedience.   If one does not have that level of basic obedience or a way to reinforce a command should the training not be up to par, I have been aware in the past that it causes problems.   As time marches on, it is easy for a person like myself to forget the problems that can crop up, if I bend the rules for someone.


The problem with bringing a dog into a pack that can not respond to the first command given during distractions takes away from the leader's ability to promote well being within the pack.  If that one dog is allowed to freedoms which they have not earned, it will cause problems.  Should a problem occur, more than one dog may need to respond to a command in an immediately.  It is not about just that one dog, but the relationship among the whole pack including me.   Managing a pack is about teamwork between the human and all the canines in the group.


Another problem is that the other dogs who are well behaved loose their freedom by needing to be put from command to command more often, to keep the untrained dog from getting into sticky situations that they can not handle.   The canine groups may not able to communicate to the newer member the ways in which they would like to be interacted with.   Often I help this communication among unfamiliar members with the use of training which has produced workable commands.  There are some dog day cares that cater to mostly untrained dogs by screening out other untrained temperaments that will not work in their structure.


Human owners who feel their dog is "trained well enough" often have suggestions for you in having their dog to come to your daycare.  Often this includes commands either commands that do not work as they have not been taught to the dog or an expectation of free training from the daycare provider. Often even when the owner sees their own suggestion does not work even for under their own guidance, the owner will not acknowledge that or just does not get the level of performance that is required.   As a dog professional it's more important to see to the needs of the group than the one.  


For a daycare owner and operator to ignore that is a big mistake.   My advice to other dog professionals is to not forget what your protocols are.   If they have worked for you in the past, then please do not forsake them for the sake of not hurting someones feelings or offending them.  It's better off for all involved if you just stick to your guns.   In this economy, it's always hard to turn away business especially for a nice (yet untrained) dog and people.   Sometimes, it's just the right thing to do.


Human clients please be aware that if you are turned away, it is nothing at all personal.   There often is a larger scope to think about than just your dog.  An area where a lot of dogs gather is so much different than a dog with your friends and their dogs that they see once a weekend at the beach.   Dogs have relationships as much as we do.  Like our relationships grow and change with other people, so do dog relationships especially in the beginning.

At Mannerly Mutts, all our dog daycare clients have been past training clients, who have been approved for daycare.   If you would like to start on your journey of training your dog, please call, e-mail, or fill out our client interview form.

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Potential dog park dangers and problems

5/28/2017

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PictureSome dogs socializing in the winter at Mannerly Mutts Dog Training.
Dog parks can be a dog owning city dweller's solution to a space challenged environment so they can provide for their canines exercise needs.  Urban budgets usually do not allow for dog park supervisory staff. There is no one in most parks checking on the doggie guests coming in, whether people are cleaning up after themselves, or available to safely and knowledgeably break up an inevitable fight. Vaccination or pest control medical records are not checked before people come in.


The population of individual dogs and personalities changes all the time in these parks. Not all dogs are going to get along with any strange dog that walks up to them, even if they get along with most dogs. Some dogs are reactionary around toys and strange dogs, some dogs just don't like certain other dog personalities, and some dogs are jealous of attention taken away from their owner or live in canine companion. Combine with this the changing pack order that happens, and dog wanting to naturally maintain or protect their status. The changing of the pack alone can cause problems of aggression and fights. This might not be a problem with your dog, but remember you are surrounded by other strange dogs that this might be a problem with. No one wants their dog to get in the mix to simply defend themselves.


Most dogs that go to dog parks are not trained. Here I am using my definition of trained, not the mere assuming the position of sit for a second and then releasing. Training (and a prosocial temperament) is what makes a dog more likely to be controllable when unpredictable situations occur. Training allows most of us to keep our dogs safe, and it's why most trained dogs don't need the confines of a dog park to get their exercise. Untrained dogs have no one to follow but themselves when a problem arises. The communication between the owner and dog for direction is non existent. This will only add to the problem above if a dog to dog or person to dog problem breaks out.


Finally, as intimated above, disease and pests come into the dog park. Even waste that is picked up can leave behind germs, which can be a problem if you don't know what the many dogs that come through there might have. Because of the lack of supervision, sometimes these parks are nasty and dirty. Fleas are a pest that is common to be picked up at a dog park. An owner will never know if a dog has been fully vaccinated or potentially exposed to something like rabies (if there is a supervised dog park, this issue might be solved).


The best solution is to train your dog so that you don't need a "dog park" to visit. Also, have friends whose dogs you know get together with you and your dog. Be sure that your dog is in control through training, when you walk them around strange dogs. This is the kind of socializing dogs need, not instances that increase danger to your dog. I would love to hear about supervised dog parks, please e-mail me or comment if you know of any.

Need help training your dog so you can both have more fun and adventure?   Call, e-mail, or fill out the client interview form.   We can get you  and your canine partner moving in the right direction.




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Dog owner question:  how to train a loose leash walk

5/26/2017

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PictureWalking with Boone to the Marketfest in York Maine.
I am sorry to inform you, I can't even summarize this in a short article with a quick tip.   That being said, if you are willing to do the work and practice it is not hard.  Loose leash walking is one of the most common things asked for by dog owners.   This is one of the fastest and easiest things to start in dog training, but you do actually have to train and teach your dog how to do it.   It is not going to get better if you try and wait it out (or you will only get there when your dog becomes geriatric).   When first training basic obedience, this is usually one of the first things we work on from day one.   Then it is practiced and maintained going forward as the rest of obedience is built upon loose leash walking.




PictureBoone is happy cooperating here. We have worked together a lot by this point, and we are on an adventure together.
What exactly is loose leash walking?   When people talk about this, they are not usually talking about the more formal command "heel".   However, it means that the dog can walk on the leash without going to the end of it and pulling or putting pressure on the leash.  The dog has learned and knows how to walk on a leash in partnership with their owner.

Loose leash walking is a very important skill for a dog to have.   It allows the dog to go to more places outside of the home, and makes the walks enjoyable to BOTH the owner and the dog.  It builds confidence and impulse control, which you will appreciate even more so if you have a reactive dog.


Trust me, the dog is not comfortable pulling or lunging against their collar.    That is one of the reasons that we teach a loose leash (the other is it is not too comfortable for their humans either).  Dogs in general are much happier when the owner is not frustrated with them as well.   By teaching this to your dog, you are only going to improve their life as well as your enjoyment of bringing them out with you.

As for methods (or parts of methods, as a method is the whole process of teaching obedience via a plan) there are many:

  1. There is the old stand like a tree when your dog hits the end of the leash.   Most dogs need a little more than this when they get older.   I find it useful for very young puppies to get started on this (among other ways).
  2. There is the Mike Ellis type method for which will rely on your building a relationship based on engagement for you and your dog.   I have used this with my dogs, but not as the only method yet.
  3. There is the long line method that I use for dogs six months and older that is based off the beginning of the Koehler method.    Of course the use for this is to build whole obedience skills with this as simply the start.  Generally, I find this a great way of laying a foundation not only for obedience but impulse control as well.
  4. Personally, I like to train a formal heel and then loosen that up at a later date.  I find (for me) that makes the process a lot less frustrating and ultimately faster.  Plus, I use heel quite a bit anyway.  I do start heel with the long line above.
,***There are even more of course, but these are the ones I primarily use and find most useful.


The things to think about when choosing a method are the following:
  1. What are your specific goals?  Different owners have different goals that could effect the method of training preferred (for example they may later want to work in agility, free style dancing, or maybe they just want a nice family pet).
  2. What is the temperament of your dog and are you having any other problems that you need to address?   Sometimes you can take your time training your dog, and other times other factors may make training an immediate safety need.  You also may need to take current behavioral problems into consideration.
  3. How old is your dog or puppy?   Adult dogs and puppies younger than six months old are generally trained in a different way with different expectations.  Young puppies are not mature enough yet to give the same performance or perform to expectations of a mature older adult.
  4. What is your dog mellow, hyper, or fearful?   This may also effect the method you wish to adopt going forward.   
  5. Who else regularly interacts with your dogs and do they have any special needs?
  6. What is the dog owner's health and activity level like?  There are some training methods that require more physically of the dog owner than others, especially in the first few weeks or months.
My newest dog, Shana, has been brought up on two methods or two modified parts of two tweaked methods.   Here she is doing the more formal, fuss or focused heel.   This really helps with the more informal loose leash walking.  The video below is more the Mike Ellis type of engagement training.


There is a lot to think about when choosing the method for your dog.   It is best to have a professional dog trainer walk you through it, if you are not already familiar with some of these methods and concepts.


​In the video link above, Boy was taught to do a loose leash walk in about 7 to 8 days.   Then his performance continued to improve as his training was continued and maintained.   Boy had some serious behavioral problems and fear in general.  So if a dog like Boy (who was fearful and moderately aggressive) can be taught and learn, then it is super easy to teach this to a dog without behavior problems.


The final outcome of loose leash walking should look something like this:)
You can also get your dog to walk with you on a loose leash.  It just requires a little work, time, and consistency.   It's really not that hard with most dogs.   Even reactive dogs will catch on in three weeks time, and you will be on your way.   Want to know how?   Just e-mail us, call us, or fill out our client interview.   We will discuss our programs with you, and what is the best fit for your team.
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Dog owner question:  how do I get my dog to calm down around the cats?

5/26/2017

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Question:  "I have just adopted a 3yr old fox terrier and my indoor/outdoor cats are terrified of him as he will chase and harass them. I have sectioned off my house so the dog cannot get into the two bedrooms so they have a place to come in but they still are hesitant to be around the dog. How do I get the dog to calm down around the cats???"

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Spartacus (middle dog) was trained and able to then get along with Sweetpea. Sweetpea was no longer afraid, once Spartacus stopped chasing her around the house.
Advice:  Short form of the answer, is that you need to have your dog understand they are an important part of the family and import to you. Or as many dog trainers say "don't let him do that".

Long form of the answer, training is a way to solve this dilemma.  I don't know if there is a way for the cats to ever feel 100% around him, but there is a way for the dog to show he is 100% not a threat.   If he is not acting in these ways around the cats, the cats will be able to relax a little to check him out.

I'm not talking about training where the command becomes more of a trick or something not to be relied on.   This takes training to a standard so that commands are at least reliable four out of five times.   Also a dog learning commands undergoes a behavioral change, as they begin to correlate what is and what is not desired in their domestic home.  Dogs really don't want to make this harder or inharmonious, but they do need direction to know how to do that.

The basic obedience commands are trained to a standard are pretty much all you need.   Be Aware though, that not training to a standard will not get you or the cats where you want to go.

NOTE:  THIS ARTICLE DOES NOT ADDRESS WHAT TO DO IF YOUR DOG ACTUALLY WANTS TO KILL THE CAT.  THAT IS, OBVIOUSLY, A SERIOUS SCENARIO.  IT WOULD REQUIRE HEAVY MANAGEMENT WITH SERIOUS TRAINING OR ONE OR THE OTHER TO BE REHOMED.  THERE WOULD BE A SLIM CHANCE THIS MIGHT HAVE A GOOD OUTCOME.   BEST NOT TO TRY IT IF THE INTENTION IS THAT ONE ANIMAL WANTS TO ACTUALLY KILL THE OTHER.  THIS DOES NOT SOUND LIKE THE ABOVE PROBLEM IN THE QUESTION POSED FOR THIS ARTICLE.

We don't train cats, but we can train most dogs to be respectful around your other pets.   Call us, e-mail us, or fill out our interview form.  We will be in touch to come discuss the best training program and plan for you and your dog (and sometimes your other pets as well LOL).


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Work with the dog you have not the dog you expected to have

5/25/2017

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If you spend time working with the dog you have, you will grow to appreciate them for who they are. A professional dog trainer will be able to design a training plan that will help you maintain an incredible working relationship:)


I have said before, I do not see dogs as a listing of their faults as their total personality or "the real dog".   I always see dogs as them plus their potential.   That being said, not every dog's potential is to be the idealized "bomb proof" dog who loves everything and anybody no matter what.   A dog with behavioral problems does have a very statistically high probability of dramatic improvement in some way.  If we get beyond the point expected for the team, I will gladly take that.   Sometimes and not often a dog does much better than I imagined for them.   Owners should take that kind of success, if it happens but should know not to expect more of their dog than they can deliver realistically.


If you have stopped working with a behaviorally challenged dog, realistically you should expect the behavior will revert back.   Some people call this "unpredictable", but trainers who work with dogs know that is highly predictable and likely.   An owner can not get to a level, and then drop back to no social interaction, no training ET, and expect the dog to be fine later on when put into a situation that is no longer familiar to them.  


Too many owners feel that because a dog now gets along well with the dog that lives in their home, suddenly they are now opened up to meeting all sorts of strange dogs.   If you have a dog that does not like dogs getting into their face, and has not relaxed later on (though is in control around these dogs) with strange dogs getting in their face----please do not think your dog is now fine to have loose, not under command, and suddenly like strange dogs doing this.   It is not unpredictable that something bad might happen, it is a highly predictable event.  The owner is still responsible to manage the environment and work the training to keep their dog and others safe (or humans safe).  This does not matter if the dog coming up is cute and friendly, if the behaviorally challenged dog does not perceive the circumstances in this way.  


Through socialization and practice the professional dog trainer or dog owner can find out that their dog does in fact like play and/or does like strange dogs.   Sometimes their frustration at not being able to play comes across as aggressive actions as the dog gets too aroused, stimulated, and frustrated.   Remember though, the DOG is coming to that conclusion under their own free will, a dog can not be forced to like playing with another dog.   A skilled handler or trainer can bring out that natural inclination if it indeed exists.


Some dogs are not going to like other dogs, especially strange dogs, coming right into their face.   Often, one can train these dogs to be controllable and learn not to react when given a directive from their owners.   This requires a lot of serious and consistent training.  A dedicated owner is necessary for this to work.   It takes a lot more work than if you happen to own a dog that really does like other dogs.  Stress is involved in owning and working a dog like this.   Again, dogs are more than their behavioral issues to those who love them.   The rest of the dog is worth the additional work needed to get them to a safer and consistent base.   When they are there and in control, this does not mean an owner can sit back, put up their feet, and forget what their dog is up to or doing, especially in new and different situations.  


I have owned three dogs like this (Shana, Jackie CD, and Neptune).   So I am really aware of what it takes to do this.  Sometimes owners do not listen or heed the warnings and an event occurs.   It usually occurs when they decide it's okay to let Ginger meet the friendly dog after all.   Sometimes it is because the owner is embarrassed that they do not own the kind of dog who they could expect to greet "miscellaneous friendly dog" politely, and they give into the peer pressure of the other owner who assures that their dog is friendly.   The point is, it does not matter that "miscellaneous friendly dog" is friendly or not, what matters is how your dog perceives the situation.   If you release them into "miscellaneous friendly dog's" space to their own devices, you have just given up control of your dog and are now hoping that your dog is not going to repeat the predictable behavior that they have historically done in the past.   THAT does not work for the dog.   They are not reading your mind, and we are not able to tell them in English that we would prefer if they did not bite "miscellaneous friendly dog".  


Trainers always try to explain to clients the clarity of being able to tell your dog WHAT to do rather than trying to have them guess what we want them NOT TO DO.   Also, when walking a potentially aggressive dog in control around other people, we can not expect those humans to know what our dog is capable of.   That is the owner's responsibility to know their dog, and to explain that to a public that will erroneously release their friendly dog towards you.   The general public expects all potentially aggressive dogs to look wildly out of control, and be openly aggressive.  The only one that can let someone in on the hidden behavioral challenges of their dog is their owner.


Some owners will be so proud of what they have accomplished, they drop the training, and remain in complete denial about some aspects of their dogs personality.   They believed that even though their dog never showed an acceptance of strange dogs, suddenly their dog is going to be able to handle this (out of the blue so to speak).  So suddenly their dog is released in social situations that they would never have been while training was going on.  That is not a good combination to have.   It virtually guarantees that an incident will happen in the future.  To the dog owner this guaranteed incident feels "unpredictable" when it happens.  They feel they can no longer trust their dog.


That is a shame, because what they can trust and predict is that their dog never did and still does not like dogs getting in their face.   Should you not prepare them or release them to do "as they will", it really should be no surprise that they will exhibit the aggressive behavior.


It really happens with all sorts of dog behavioral issues outside of aggression, but aggression is what will have dog owners giving up on their dogs, so that is what I am concentrating on in this post.  If you go for years with a potentially aggressive dog that has not had incidents, this is usually due to training continuing, management of the environment (IE "no my dog is not friendly, my dog can not meet yours and your dog can not come over", muzzles and such).  Just because the incidents did not occur does not mean that your dog suddenly loves every strange dog on the planet.   The ones who do decide they are into strange dogs are pretty obvious about it.   Though one point I should make is that their behavior can vary depending on the handler in whose hands they feel the most safe.   I have at least one client's dogs who comes here, and their owner can not make them feel safe enough to release them to play, while the dog views me and my place as a safe zone.   This does not frequently happen, but it can happen that a dog does not feel safe with their owner.  Maybe because their owner is not that good at reading other dogs and/or their own dog.   Lots of reasons may come into play for this, but again it is usually fairly obvious when this happens.   So if this client suddenly decides that just because their dog is relaxed enough to do this here, that their dog can suddenly do this with them without the additional work and training (in this case to train the human), they are fooling themselves.

Does are you struggling with your dog's behavioral problems?  Mannerly Mutts Dog training programs can begin to make life a lot easier and more enjoyable for the both of you.


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Tips Before You Begin Biking With Your Dog

5/24/2017

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Biking is not an activity that dog owners "need" to do or "have to" learn. This is something that I do with my dogs for the enjoyment.   However, if you don't do this safely, it will be a much less enjoyable activity.   This activity needs to be safe for you AND your dog.


So before you even think of biking with your dogs, consider these tips and safety measures:




  1. Dogs should be healthy with mature bodies before doing repetitive exercises  Check with your vet if you are not sure that your dog's body is mature yet.   You want to stay away from repetitive exercises when the bones and joints are still forming.
  2. Concrete, pavement, and cars can kill you or your dog. (not while biking) I missed a step one day to the mudroom and fell onto our concrete floor. My whole chin was one large lump and bruise, I felt quite fortunate to have hit there instead of my head (where a concussion may have rendered me unconscious and then dead). I was also very grateful to have not shattered my jaw. Now consider this power in a scenario where you may be propelled forward. (see number 4)
  3. Dirt roads and trails contain rocks, which can kill you if you strike the right body part on them. (see number 4)
  4. Wear a helmet on your bike with or without a dog. (See number 2)
  5. You have no business even thinking about biking with your dog, unless you know how to train solidly for basic obedience. Or are training with someone who will teach this solidly. The reason for this being a dog left to his own does not know the danger caused by running UNDER the bikes wheels or lunging at a squirrel.
  6. Prepare, prepare, prepare before mounting your bike with your dog in tow. I usually start with heeling my dog next to a shopping cart at Petco for instance to get them used to it in a fun environment. I heel them next to me walking my bike. I do lots of these things before I mount the bike with my dog, including making sure that they know basic obedience very very well. You will also want an emergency sit, auto sits when you stop the bike.
  7. Always consider the safety of the general public around you. This article link is one example of what could happen.
  8. Flexi leads are very likely to get wrapped up in gears (and there should be no need as your dog should be heeling next to you IMO ). This is why I do this on my strong, sturdy leather lead. Note this is not to keep my dog with me when he pulls, as I do not allow my dogs to pull when in a heel. It's to keep the loose leash from being frail and thin enough to wrap around the gears.
  9. Just in general with biking, I tend to not wear sneakers with any laces that could become untied and wind up in the gears. Some lighter baggier kinds of clothes can get caught in them as well.
  10. Do NOT attach leash to bike or tie it around yourself. Better to hold the leash  in an accordion style, in case your dog stops to pee so you can quickly drop the leash, stop, and call your dog to you when he/she is done.
  11. Remember dogs may have to stop and pee or poop, and may not be able to tell you how...other than by stopping suddenly. 
  12. Keep in mind that your dog should only go at their comfortable pace.
  13. If you want to multi task and exercise, put the bike on the highest tension level possible, rather than overtaxing your dog with speed.
  14. This is a group/partnership event, you must always be aware and look out for yourself, your dog, and others.


I am sure that I missed a lot more, but these are things to think about before even considering biking with your dog:) One can always bike without a leash with their well trained dog in a safe and known environment. I always have a leash on my dog whenever I am around vehicles that are moving quickly. When I am riding around my house, my dogs don't have leashes on, and are free to decide to follow or not follow. Many times I don't have them in a heel if it's just on my own property. Still, you will want to start out so that your dogs are aware that they shouldn't run into wheels, jump on you, et. I probably could have added a few more for this scenario.

Interested in doing this with your dog?  Call or e-mail us, and we will set up a program for you.

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    Author, Robin Rubin

    ​Owner and Head Dog Trainer in Maine, Robin Katherine Rubin, started her Maine dog training business in September 2004.  Our dog training facility is located in Southern Maine in York Beach and we help families enjoy their dogs more, making sure they listen reliably and resolving unwanted behaviors.

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